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What is Art

 Originally published in Society 805

 

What is Art….

By Vonder Gray

I have had several people in the past month tell me they do not do art, wish they were artistic or creative. I think art is subjective; we like certain forms, painting, sculpture, dance, film, theater for me (among others). Being artistic in a traditional sense is wonderful and exciting and joyful but generally comes with a price for the artistic one.

The Muse is not always friendly!

Most of these admirers of my artist’s life have lived lives I admire and I want to honor their creativity and art! I have had 2 unsuccessful marriages so feel anyone who’s had a successful long term marriage has a personal creativity I long for.


Anyone who can keep a beautiful house consistently without being a pain in the butt about it wins a big star in my book; the art of folding sheets and towels to make a neat linen closet eludes me and organized kitchen drawers are a fantasy! Such vision and creativity I applaud!

 

My vision, since I was a young child, has always been paintings. I see things, all things as paintings…and maybe theater pieces, monologues, plays and the occasional film script. It is a gift, I love it and am grateful for it and still sometimes I stand in front of my friend’s linen closet and think it’s so beautiful! It touches something in my soul! And then I want to paint it! I look at another friend’s ability to make order out of chaos with numbers and I’m awed by the talent and vision.

As I mature in age and wisdom I am becoming more accepting of myself and my art, my creativity, my shortcomings and am able to see and revel in the rich and rewarding life I have lived and wish the same for all “creatives”! So…go forth, be creative and most of all enjoy your life!

 

Vonder Gray is an artist, actor & writer living in Ventura CA

She is also the author & editor of  http://www.vondergray.blogspot.com/

 
Why Socialize Your Puppy?

Being a pet sitter is quite a rewarding job. I have the opportunity to meet so many wonderful pets and their humans.  Most of the time the dogs that I pet sit are well behaved and spoiled (only a good way) by their humans. But, there are some dogs that are lacking in social skills and acceptable behavior.

I have this one client that has a 5 month old pup that is absolutely wonderful. She’s loving and playful and everything you would want a puppy to be. For one exception, she hasn’t been socialized yet.  She is now getting into all sorts of trouble, eating everything in sight, not behaving well when company comes over, and still piddling when she gets excited. The piddling part I am hoping she will out grow. She even has made herself sick because she ate part of a bush in the yard that is poisonous to dogs. As well as started to chew on furniture, not due to the lack of toys either.

The reason that I am told that she has not been socialized yet is because the Vet has told her parents that she cannot be around other dogs until she has had all of her vaccinations. Why she hasn’t had all by 5 months is a little confusing to me but, that’s Vet’s call. After raising 4 dogs over the last 20 years, experience has taught me that having all their shots by the age of 12 weeks is fine for them. In the meantime taking them on outings in the car and letting them see other dogs before their shots are finished have worked for us. Then at 12 weeks when the shots were done we would immediately get them out into public to dog parks, taking them on walks in the neighborhood, as well as meeting and greeting others.

Since a puppy only has a critical few weeks to become initially socialized between 8 – 14 weeks, it is imperative that all stimuli and experiences be positive ones. This is when the puppy is most inclined to absorb what is being introduced to them as well as whom they are being introduced to in a positive light. That’s just the way their little brains work. As you introduce your puppy to new experiences, people, other dogs, and situations; make sure that you give them a special dog treat to reinforce the positive behavior that they display. They will learn to see other dogs not as threats but as buddies. They are pack animals and as such they need to be with their pack, whether they are at the dog park or visiting someone’s home on a play date.

Anyway, in the meantime my pet sitting puppy is suffering from lack of socialization. The boredom is setting in. Not being out on walks with other dogs and learning what other dogs say and do with each other is really hindering her future. So….. When I go to see her I make sure that we have at least an hour of leash time in the backyard. We work on our Heal, Sit, Wait, Turns, and Comes. I always reward her with special dog treats anytime she is doing well.  I always try to tire her out so that she doesn’t get into too much mischief when I am gone.

Let this be a lesson to those with new puppies. Please, please, please….. When speaking to your Vet, ask them how it will affect your puppy if your puppy is not socialized in a timely manor between 8-14 weeks. Don’t let your puppy not become socialized in the critical time period. Make sure they get all of their vaccinations finished by 12 weeks. That way they have a fighting chance to be well balanced dogs when they grow up, and learn their own language from other dogs and get a chance to be in a pack environment.  Don’t forget to sign them up for a K9 Kindergarten class as well. This will help you with the tools you will need for full on obedience training course.

Always remember to feed your dog with love and a wise heart.

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How COOL is your dog this time of year?

While there are heat waves going on all across the country right now.  I thought I would share some tips on keeping your dog cool during the dog days of summer. Your dog does not have a choice in taking their fur coats off. Even if they have double coats that help regulate their temperature like a double coated Border Collie like our Moss. They can still get overheated very easily. A dog’s normal body temperature is between 101 to 102.5 degrees; a dog can only withstand a high body temperature for a short time before suffering nerve damage, heart problems, liver damage, brain damage or even death.

** NEVER leave your dog in the car!!!! I don’t care if you crack the window and park in the shade. This is VERY DANGEROUS!! There have already been several dogs that have died in the past couple of weeks because someone decided that they will take their dog with them on errands, or that they will run errands after they pick up their dog from the groomer, or have just plain “forgotten about them” being in the car. IT’S NOT OKAY! Your dog only keeps it’s self cool by panting and through the pads of their paws. I don’t care how “fast you are running into the store”. Here are some facts about what happens inside a car during moderate temperatures.

VEHICLE HEATING DYNAMICS

The atmosphere and the windows of a car are relatively “transparent” to the sun’s shortwave radiation (yellow in figure below) and are warmed little.  However this shortwave energy does heat objects that it strikes.  For example, a dark dashboard or seat can easily reach temperatures in the range of 180 to over 200 degrees F.

These objects (e.g., dashboard, steering wheel, child seat) heat the adjacent air by conduction and convection and also give off longwave radiation (red) which is very efficient at warming the air trapped inside a vehicle.

Heat in a car that builds up after 30 minutes.

This is from: http://ggweather.com/heat/

** Make sure they always have access to clean cool water. Put some ice cubes in it if they have to stay outside during the day.

** If you have a backyard or patio, buy a hard plastic Kiddie Pool. Most K-Marts and other discount stores have them for $8 – $15. It’s completely worth it! This way your dog can hang out in the cool water to reduce their body temperature.

** Soak a wash cloth with cool water and wipe down their head, neck, and chest. This will also help them regulate their body temp.

** Give your dog Pupcicles! There are recipes out there and are easy to make. Just check with your Vet to make sure your dog is allowed to have them if your pup has any medical / food issues. Here is just one of the recipes that I have come across. I am going to try this one for sure!

by Hollys Rangie » June 9th, 2008, 9:28 pm

My pups love these frozen treats and they are super easy to make. They are a great treat for those hot days like we have been having recently having here in North Carolina. Just thought I would share it with you!

32 ounces non-fat yogurt 2 bananas (mashed) 1/2 cup natural peanut butter 2 tablespoons honey Combine all the ingredients in a bowl. Mix well. Fill small dixie cups (bathroom size) with the mixture. Freeze at least two hours. When it is time to serve, let them thaw a little and pop them in to a bowl by pushing on the bottom of the cup! Let the pups enjoy!

From: http://www.pitbulltalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=23948

I hope this gives you some good ideas. If you have more ideas to share please post a comment.

 
Interview with Heather O’Neill, CPDT on Animal Training

I know everyone has questions about training their pets, as I do.  So I thought I would sit down with a professional and find out about pet training and what kind of person gets into this profession in the first place.

SG: What got you interested in Dog Training in the first place?

Heather: In 2000, I actually went to the Exotic Animal Training Program at Moorpark College to give me more insight into exotic animal behavior. So I would be better at observing animals in the wild, when out in the field shooting pictures. While at EATM I fell in love with the training aspect of behavior and animals.

SG: How long have you been Pet Training?

Heather: I trained exotic animals from 2000- 2002 and then went into domestic training in 2002 after graduating.

SG: What is your background?

Heather: I started working at VMSG – Ventura Medical Surgical Group, which is a Veterinary Clinic in 1998. Then I entered the EATM Program, where I received certificates in Animal care and handling, animal education and animal training and behavior modification. I also received the Trainer’s Choice Award at the Animal Behavior and Management Alliance conference in 2002 at the San Diego Zoo for training I did with a Bengal Tiger. I have since then also taken and passed the Certified Professional Dog Trainers exam and started my own business in 2004 training and giving care to domestic pets ever since.

SG: Are there certain animals that you like to train more than others?

Heather: My first love was the tiger, but I have come to enjoy training all of them. In school the African Serval had to be my favorite to leash train and start to bring him out into public, which led to him being a top performer in educational shows.  Macaws have to be the most difficult to train one in particular who was unsocial zed and would attach to one particular person which was not me. I love training dogs that are eager to work and want to participate in the training process. These are the dogs that make us look good!!!

African Serval

SG: What do you find the most difficult part of Dog Training?

Heather: The most difficult part of being a dog trainer has nothing to do with the dogs of course. It is most often to get the owners past their old habits with their dogs or their beliefs about their dog’s behavior. These are usually the first things that need to be changed in order to move forward and help them and the dog with their particular situation.

SG: What is the most rewarding part?

Heather: Seeing the light bulb go on in the dogs heads when they get it and having the owners tell me that I have taught them more about their own behavior and life in addition to their dogs.

SG: What treats work best while training a dog?

Heather: I have found that natural balance dog food rolls work almost universally for all dogs. Of course for a more difficult behaviors or dogs that are not as food motivated special treats would be in order…leftovers anyone???

SG: Tell us a story of your most memorable experience while training someone’s dog.

Heather: Wow this is a tough one… I will give you a couple. One demonstrated how tone of voice is important and to not overuse. And this was actually not during a training session but while exercising a client’s dog. The dog had a long history of aggression towards other animals and was a female chow mix 3years old (Lucy). While out on our regular biweekly run we came across another client with a small terrier mix (Dudley) as we were saying hello in passing. Lucy pulled out of her gentle leader and was heading straight for (Dudley). I knew what would happen if she got him, and it would have probably no doubt in my mind ended his life. I used my deepest toughest voice and simply said “Lucy NOOOOOO!!!” Since she had never heard me use this tone with her before she literally turned on a dime 3-4 feet from him, tail tucked head down and slowly came back to me in a curved approach and sat to my left side slightly behind me and did not move. Watching my every move and waiting for my next communication.

Another one is of a friend’s dog I had just met that day. A 3-year-old Boston Terrier (Truffle). He was so eager and in tune to my body language that I taught him to “Play Dead” (I use the verbal cue” bang” ) and the visual Cue of my hand pointed like a gun. He rolls over on his side and then with all four paws in the air lays there. We did this in 3, yes I said 3 repetitions 1 2 3 and he still does it to this day almost a year later. If all dogs could learn that fast heck if humans could learn that fast amazing….

If you would like more information on Heather O’Neill and her services you can go to her web site. http://www.go2psu.com/

 
Doggie Etiquette

Yes, there is such a thing as Doggie Etiquette. We tend to think about etiquette for ourselves when we are in public. For example, how to act at a nice restaurant or when meeting someone for the first time professionally. But, not a lot of thought is put into the  fact that when we are walking our dogs in public that there is actually an etiquette to follow there as well. Here are a few rules that I believe every dog owner should be aware of  when in public with their dog.  That way Fido doesn’t get a bad reputation in the neighborhood and you will be looked up to as a responsible dog owner.

Taking Fido on a walk:

  • Always make sure that you have your pup on a secure leash when in public.
  • When walking your dog, make sure that they stay on the sidewalk,  walkway, or grass. Not in the street. Some leashes are retractable and if walked too far ahead your dog could go into the street.
  • When coming upon another person, make sure that you stop and bring your dog to a sit position. Greet the person, then introduce your dog to them.  This way your dog wont get too excited and jump on the person and you have full control. The same goes to meeting another person with a dog. This way both animals don’t get too excited and their meeting should be a pleasant one.
  • Always carry poop bags with you and clean up after your pup. Even if you don’t think Fido will do his/her business on your outing. You never know when nature calls, and you don’t want to be empty handed. If you do see someone else’s mess be a good neighbor.
  • NEVER let your dog off leash in any place other than a designated Dog Park, or secluded area with no one around. You may have 100% confidence in the handling of your dog. But, what if another owner has their dog also off leash that you do not know? Your meeting may not be so pleasant.

I hope these etiquette tips are useful for you and your dog. You will be seen as a responsible dog owner and a great neighbor.  Keeping your dog in check and on their best behavior.  Don’t forget to give your dog healthy treats that you can reward them with while out on your adventures together.  The more positive reinforcement they get the better behaved they will be.

Remember to feed your dog with love and a wise heart!

 
K9 First Aid - Part II CPR
Feed your dog with love and a wise heart. K9 First Aid – Part II CPR June 15, 2010 tags: , by samgourmet

picture from the American Red Cross

God forbid you would ever need to preform CPR on  your dog. But, if you do, here’s how you do it step by step.

Artificial Respiration

If your dog has gone into respiratory arrest, begin artificial respiration immediately.

  • Lay your dog on his side on a flat surface.
  • Be sure your dog has stopped breathing: watch for the rise and fall of the chest, feel for breath on your hand, look at the gums – they will turn blue from lack of oxygen.
  • Check the airway – it must be clear. Extend the head and neck. Open the mouth and look for a foreign object. If an object is blocking the airway, grab the tongue and pull it outward. If this does not dislodge the object, use your fingers or tongs to grasp it. If the object cannot be reached or pulled out, use the Heimlich Maneuver.
  • Once the airway is clear, begin rescue breathing.
  • With your dog on his side, lift the chin to straighten out his throat. Make sure that his tongue is not turning down into his throat.
  • Use one hand to grasp the muzzle and hold the mouth shut.
  • Put your mouth completely over the nose and blow gently; the chest should expand. Blow just enough to move his chest (blow harder for large dogs, gently for cats and small dogs).
  • Wait for the air to leave the lungs before breathing again.
  • Continue this, giving 20 breaths per minute (one breath every three seconds), until your dog breathes on his own or as long as the heart beats.
  • Continue to monitor the heartbeat.
  • CPR

    If your dog’s heart has stopped beating, CPR must begin immediately. It is best to have two people performing CPR – one continuing artificial respiration while the other does chest compressions. Follow the instructions for artificial respiration, alternating with chest compressions. For two people performing CPR, alternate one breath with three compressions. For one person performing CPR, alternate one breath with five compressions.

    For Small Dogs (under 30 pounds)

  • Lay your dog on her side on a flat surface.
  • Place the palm of your hand on the rib cage over the heart. Place your other hand on top of the first. (For puppies and kittens, put your thumb on one side of the chest and the rest of your fingers on the other side.)
  • Compress the chest about one inch. Squeeze and release rhythmically at a rate of 80 to 100 compressions per minute.
  • For Medium & Large Dogs (over 30 pounds)

  • Lay your dog on her side on a flat surface.
  • Place one hand on top of the other over the widest portion of the rib cage, not over the heart.
  • Keeping your arms straight, push down on the rib cage. Compress the chest ¼ of its width. Squeeze and release rhythmically at a rate of 80 compressions per minute.
  • Continue CPR until your dog breathes on his own and has a steady heartbeat.
  • Take your dog to the Vet immediately for evaluation.

     
    Announcing June’s Dog of the Month!!! Pearl, the Great Dane!!

    This is Pearl our winner and Dog of the Month!!

    Here is her story told by her Mom Dawn from Wytheville, Virginia.

    ” Here is my entry. This is my baby girl “Pearl”. She is a very special Great Dane. Pearl was born deaf and recently started having seizures. She is so loving and very smart, we have taught her hand signals for different commands. She also gets her own ice from the frig and can open just about any door. She may be a Giant but she is a Gentle Giant.”

    For being a Sammy’s Gourmet Dog of the Month, Pearl will receive 2 bags of gourmet dog treats from our store! Congratulations Pearl!!! You are one lucky pup to have such a great Mom that takes such good care of you.

     
    Canine Liver Cancer: Types, Causes, and Treatments

    ziadaunallah @ flickr

    The last common disease we will be discussing in this series is liver cancer in dogs. It is arguably the most common threat to their health. It has been related to environmental factors, such as carcinogens (cancer-causing chemicals) and food additives that can be found in commercial dog food. Some signs of liver cancer might be vomiting, loss of appetite, and weight loss.

    There are two main types of liver disease, Primary and Metastatic. Primary liver cancer occurs only when there is a tumor or growth on the liver. The most common of the several different primary forms of liver cancer is hepatocellar carcinoma, which occurs when the tumor doesn’t grow to infect the whole body, instead it invades the liver tissue. Metastatic liver cancer is more common than primary. This disease occurs when a cancerous tumor spreads into the liver tissue from other damaged organs.

    The liver is responsible for destroying the toxins that enter the body. When the liver is damaged, the immune system begins to shut down and the body has no defense against the toxins.

    One treatment for liver cancer is surgery to remove the tumor; however, if it has already infected the tissue, this is not an option. In some cases of metastatic liver cancer chemotherapy to break down the cancerous cells is recommended. Another treatment for liver cancer is a natural and healthy diet. Though this treatment will not break down the cancerous cells in the body, it is proven to strengthen the immune system to help the body fight off the disease. A dog with cancer should have a balanced diet that consists of:

    . small amounts of complex carbohydrates (Ginger Carobs, Blueberry Cookies) . minimal quantities of rapidly absorbed simple sugars (Peanut Butter Biscotti) . high quality but modest amounts of digestible proteins (Chicken breast treats, Bacon Snaps) . high amounts of unsaturated fats. (Cheese)

    For some tips on a healthy diet for dogs with liver cancer, please visit this website: http://www.natural-dog-health-remedies.com

    Always remember, feed your dog with love and a wise heart.

     
    Early Morning Wake up Call

    How many times has this happened to you? When retiring for the night, all you can think about is how great it will be to be able to sleep in after a long week. Then at 4:11 am you hear a small “ruff” next to the bed, just loud enough to wake you up but, not loud enough to make you jump. You open your eyes and in the dark you see a silhouette of your pup with her ears sticking straight up. Saying, “come on” I’m up and ready for the day why aren’t you?”.

    Since Cooper has graduated from sleeping in her crate to coming and going as she pleases, we have not had to set our alarm. She doesn’t need to sleep in our bed. She would rather sleep on the floor next to it with her brother Moss. But, let me tell you when she is ready to get up and moving we know it. I will usually pat the bed a couple of times and she’ll jump up and we will spoon.  Like she understands and knows that I need to snooze a bit longer. But, it only lasts for about 45 minutes. LOL!

    Here are some tips that I have tried and that have worked for me. * I hope they will work for you too!

    • Rule out medical conditions: Talk to your Vet just in case. They may have urinary infections or maybe digestive problems.  Otherwise, if your pup is healthy, here are some alternatives.
    • Train your pup to sleep in.* If your pup wakes you up earlier than your alarm, see if you can get him/her to lay next to the bed, quiet and calmly. Give positive reinforcement. Such as, dog treats, a bone to chew, or even better, a stuffed animal that has seen better days that they can take the stuffing out of to occupy their time.
    • Tire him/her out the night before.* Cooper pup loves the Frisbee. She is very prey driven. So we will make sure before we turn in for the night, we will throw the Frisbee for her for about 20 minutes. She’ll be panting quite a bit, but will usually sleep until we get up.
    • Feed your pup a little earlier and make sure they go potty right before you go to bed. This is for dog parents that do not have the use of a dog door. It may be your dog wakes you up early because they have to go out sooner than later.

    If you have other tips you want to share please feel free to do so. I would love to hear from you.

    Always remember, feed your dog with love and a wise heart.

     
    How can you avoid Canine Kidney Disease??

    Did you know that the commercial dog food may be making your dog prone to kidney disease? Many of the name brands of dog food include terrible ingredients that may make your dog’s organs and immune system weak, enabling them to develop painful symptom. To save money, dog food is made from meat by-product which could include cancerous tissue, infected limbs, deformed limbs, infected hearts and kidneys (just to name a few). Kidney failure occurs when the body can no longer get rid of the harmful waste that is taken from the infected food the dog eats. If their bodies are taking in this garbage on a regular basis, there kidneys will no longer be able to fight off the harmful ingredients and the path toward kidney failure will become inevitable.

    There are two forms of kidney failure for dogs; acute and chronic. Acute Kidney Disease is the beginning, when the first symptoms that toxic food is damaging the kidney, which leads to autoimmune deficiency. The symptoms can be sudden and severe. Chronic Kidney Disease is the effect of years of exposure to harmful and toxic ingredients. The symptoms are not as easily detectable, but far more serious and more difficult to treat.

    One essential treatment preventing kidney failure is nutrition. Hydration is very effective to flush out the toxic chemicals and ingredients from the canine’s system. That should be followed up with a high quality protein diet. If your dog can regularly enjoy a healthy diet with high quality protein and ingredients, their kidneys will be strong well into old age.

    Here are some great high quality protein treats for your dog: chicken breast treats.

    Always remember to feed your dog with love and a wise heart.

     
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